Sunday, February 14, 2010

Adventures in Panama: a tribute to patience & tolerance

Patience does not crimp the flow of event. Patience accepts and tolerates the different ways we each see and act out life. Tolerance accepts that each of us are doing what we need to at this very moment. Tolerance arises from a state of mental relaxation that allows us to remain calm.

I bring up both patience and tolerance because in the 27 days that I have been traveling, they are two key factors in making this trip a success for me. I have not had a warm shower since I left LA, traveled as long as 8 hours on a single crowded bus so cold it was painful, spent many nights in rooms with up to 11 other people, I wear my closes over and over again until they actually start to smell, and the list goes on. And the fact remains, I like it!! Before I left I envisioned things to be much different, yet to my surprise I find myself to be quite malleable to my surroundings. There is no comparison to my life here and what my life was back in LA and I am definitely able to embrace the culture around me with love and a child's eye.

I left Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica at 7am on January 31 for Bocas Del Toro, Panama. The trip to the boarder only took about 1 hour, however to cross the boarder was another story. The line to exit Costa Rica took about 40 minutes which there they check to make sure you have a return flight back home, I walked the bridge over the boarder and into Panama. Once there, I stood in line again for another 45 minutes where I received my entrance stamp. I proceeded to take a taxi from the boarder at Sixaola another 45 minutes to Bocas Del Toro where I jumped in a water taxi and took the boat 20 minutes to the Island of Colon. And so my adventures in Panama began...

Just before I walked across the boarder into Panama. My backpack was starting to get heavy at this point.
The line at the Panama boarder. Yes, there were a few men with guns.
One of my first views in from the water taxi into Bocas.
Bocas Del Toro is a city made up of several small islands. The only way to get around is by water taxis....kind of cool, but only when visiting for a few days. A typical boat ride will cost anywhere from $2-$8. Here I stayed in a true hostel called the Gran Kahuna where I was in a room with 3 sets of bunk beds....my first experience of many to come. Let me tell you it is kind of strange being 36 and sleeping in a room with 5 strangers. Definitely takes tolerance.
Since the surf was large and the coral very shallow I didn't go out surfing. I decided to spend one day taking a snorkel tour between island. I am not a huge fan of snorkeling, but after seeing what I saw....I was obsessed with it. The coral is unbelievable here, each place we went was so different. The water was so shallow at some of the stops it was a bit scary just to jump in the water....I felt like a scuba diver all day and would fall in backwards as not to cut my feet on the coral. I had seen what coral can do to your feet and hands when you touch it, so I was extra cautious. Luckily, I made it through the day without touching it. However, someone on my boat proceeded to break the ladder and we had to climb back in each time. Let me tell you it is no easy feat and by the end of the day, the bruises on my arm looked like a big piece of meat.
Look how crystal clear the water is....
My group snorkeling, I think that is me with the yellow snorkel in the back.
The highlight of my day at red frog beach....I found 2 frogs. They are no larger than the size of a quarter, and apparently poisonous.
My group of Argentinian friends I hung out with all day. They spoke very little English and I spoke poor Spanish....so we had several good laughs throughout the day. Good times for sure!
I spent only 2 days in Bocas and left early on February 2 to head to Boquete. After taxing the water taxi back to the terminal I took a 4 1/2 hour bus ride to David in a bus so crowded, I stood most of the way until a jump seat opened up for the 1 1/2 hours. Then an hour bus ride from David to the beautiful Boquete. The mountain views here are incredible and there is such a sense of calmness around. It was much cooler here than in Bocas and rainbows were everywhere.
Downtown Boquete. My hostel, Mamallena, was just around the corner. It was sweet and cozy and I was in a room with only 4 beds this time.
The second day I was in Boquete I decided to take the trip to the local hot springs. There were a group of 5 guys from my hostel who were going so I tagged along for the day. Three of them were young ex Israeli soldiers and the other 2 were American. This is one of 3 small hot springs...however, after the hour long hike in the heat the hot water didn't seem so tempting. But, the incredibly cold river next to it was a great consolation. This was a fun day...the bus ride back is a whole other story.

The next day I decided to rent a scooter with a friend from the hostel and cruise around the city up into the mountains. I will never forget this day....a true adventure!!

Here is a private garden open to the public...so wonderfully well manicured.
The view driving up the mountain.
We passed these rock formations and saw this brave guy free climbing this wall. AMAZING!!
This was the BEST part of the day....we drove way up into the mountains and stumbled across this beautiful old traditional home. We parked the scooter and started walking toward the house. At first I must admit I was a bit nervous, but was pleasantly greeted by this sweet old man. Luckily my friend spoke Spanish so he was able to translate for me....his family made us fresh donuts, we ate the fruit from the trees and he told us about his family and the land. Such a strong family heritage....no words can describe this experience.
After leaving the home we kept traveling up the mountain a ways and passed a waterfall on the side of the road. We stopped and I just could help but jump in.
Here I am enjoying the views and taking a few pictures...
Locals on their way home from school and work.
I decided to leave Boquete on February 5 and change directions and head to Panama City....which was not on my original agenda. I met someone who while in Boquete encouraged me to travel to Columbia for a change of pace (this will be in my next blog). So, I took the last bus from Boquete back to David and then the midnight bus from David to Panama City. In addition to my new friend, I met 4 Argentinian girls who traveled along with us. It was a long trip, and when we all arrived in PC at 6:30am we had no place to go. We proceeded to head to a hostel in Casco Viejo called Luna Castle, which was quite large and definitely the place to be. Once there we found out that we wouldn't know if we would have a beds until 5pm....so we decided to do what any good backpacker would do....we found the showers, made pancakes in the kitchen and used the internet. Then we stashed our bags and walked the city. We soon found out that Panama City was a place to be extremely cautious....and not to travel alone or bring attention to yourself. Luckily, we all ended up with beds and I was in a room with 6 bunks, which is 12 beds.

The sunrise view when we first arrived at Luna Castle.
Casco Viejo. The neighborhood has an old world European feel. The streets are narrow and most of the buildings are just remnants. It appears that the city is making an effort to restore and rebuild, but they still have a long way to go.
This is the view from the back window at Luna Castle. I think everyone who stays there has this exact same picture.
Just one of the decrepit buildings in the neighborhood.

All around the city were these Indian women walking the streets in these traditional outfits. I had this shot and thought it was interesting, just the lower half, but you can get an idea of what the rest of the outfit might look like. I never did find out anything about them. I should...
The locals...check out the mismatched sneakers. This guy was so happy to be in my pictures....then again, everyone in Casco Viejo wanted to be in pictures.
The local fish market...the best $2 cerviche!!
Can you believe lobster tail is $7.50/lb?
Totally cool.
All the buses in Panama City look like this....old school buses each painted differently but unbelievably colorful. The insides are just as colorful.
View of Modern Panama.
Old Panama:
About two miles from the center of Panama City are found the ruins of the first capital, known as Old Panama or Panama La Vieja, founded in 1519. Fragments of walls and arches stand in an open park, recalling the splendor of the Spaniard's first settlement on the Pacific Ocean. When Henry Morgan looted the city in 1671, Panama's governor ordered the powder magazine burned and the whole city went up in flames. The capital was moved two miles to the west, and present-day Panama City was founded in 1673.

My new Argentinian friends. I love these girls and hope to stay in touch. I must have a thing for Argentinians....This picture was taken on Monday, February 8 just as I was leaving for my night flight to Columbia.
Stay tuned.....